Pumpkin Patch Circle Bralette Free Crochet Pattern

Pumpkin Patch Circle Bralette — Free Crochet Pattern for Absolute Beginners

Introduction

Welcome to your very first wearable! The Pumpkin Patch Circle Bralette is a cozy, rustic little layering piece made from two chevron-striped triangle cups in moss and lichen greens, finished with warm pumpkin-orange trim and a simple crocheted back strap. It is perfect for teens and anyone who loves that handmade farmhouse look, and it is genuinely beginner-friendly because every cup is a flat rectangle of simple stitches — no shaping, no complicated math, no sewing curves. When it is finished, you will hold a soft, textured bralette with a gentle zigzag surface, a smooth orange border around each cup, and a striped strap that ties the whole thing together. If you have never held a hook before, take a breath — you are about to make something you can actually wear.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (also called medium, #4) acrylic yarn, approximately 180–220 yards total. You need 1 skein each in Moss (deep olive green), Lichen (soft sage green), and Pumpkin (warm orange). Acrylic is recommended for beginners because it is forgiving, easy to unravel, and machine washable.
• Crochet hook: 5.0 mm (US size H-8).
• Stitch markers: 4–6 removable markers (or use safety pins or scrap yarn).
• Tapestry needle: a blunt-tipped yarn needle with a large eye, for weaving in ends and sewing the strap.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Measuring tape for checking gauge and fit.

Finished size: Fits teen sizes XS–M. Each cup measures approximately 6 inches wide and 5 inches tall. The back strap measures approximately 20 inches long and 2.5 inches wide. Finished bralette width across the front (both cups joined) is approximately 12 inches.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every pattern is written in shorthand. Here is every abbreviation used in this pattern, explained as if you have never crocheted before.

• ch — chain. Make a loop with your yarn, then pull a new loop through it. Each loop you pull through is one chain. Chains are the foundation you build on.
• sc — single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over the hook, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), wrap yarn over again, pull through both loops. One loop remains. This is the shortest, tightest basic stitch.
• hdc — half double crochet. Wrap yarn over hook first, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap yarn over, pull through all 3 loops at once. Slightly taller than sc.
• dc — double crochet. Wrap yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap yarn over and pull through 2 loops, wrap yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops. A tall stitch — this is what makes the chevron zigzag.
• sl st — slip stitch. Insert hook into stitch, wrap yarn over, pull through the stitch and through the loop on your hook in one motion. Used to join rounds or move without adding height.
• st(s) — stitch or stitches.
• sk — skip. Do not work into that stitch; leave it empty. Skipping is what creates the zigzag points.
• sp — space (the gap created when you skipped a stitch).
• beg — beginning.
• rep — repeat.
• RS — right side. The "public" side of your work that faces out when worn.
• turn — flip your work over so you can work back across the row you just made.
• fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work, pull the tail all the way through the last loop, and tug gently to lock it.
• 3 dc in next st — work three double crochet stitches into the same stitch. This creates the peak of the chevron.

Gauge

Gauge: 16 single crochet stitches x 18 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit into one inch of fabric. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern expects, your bralette will come out too large; if they are smaller, it will be too tight. Because this piece is worn close to the body, getting close to gauge matters.

How to make a gauge swatch: With your 5.0 mm hook and Moss yarn, chain 22. Work single crochet in each chain across, then work 20 more rows of single crochet (ch 1, turn at the start of each row). Lay the swatch flat, measure a 4-inch section in the middle, and count how many stitches and rows fall inside it. If you have more than 16 stitches in 4 inches, your tension is tight — try a larger hook. If you have fewer, your tension is loose — try a smaller hook. Do not skip this step; it takes 15 minutes and saves you hours.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Count your stitches at the end of every row. Every row in this pattern should end with 20 stitches (or 40 for the strap). If you are off, fix it before moving on — small errors grow fast.
• Use stitch markers to mark your first and last stitch of each row. Beginners commonly lose the last stitch, which makes the piece shrink row by row.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Hold the yarn with gentle tension. Tight stitches make the chevron peaks curl and make it hard to insert your hook.
• Change colors on the last stitch of the previous row. To change from Moss to Lichen, work the final pull-through of your last stitch with the new color. This keeps the stripe edge clean.
• Keep your skipped stitches truly skipped. The zigzag depends on skipping exactly 2 stitches on each side of every 3-dc cluster. If you accidentally work into a skipped stitch, the pattern will drift.
• Work in good light and take breaks. Your hands will cramp the first time. Ten minutes of practice, a stretch, and back to it is the fastest way to learn.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Note: This bralette is worked as two identical triangle cups from the top down, then joined with a back strap. All stitches are in US crochet terms.

Special Stitch: Chevron Stripe Pattern

Worked over a multiple of 6 stitches + 1.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * across.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, dc in next st; rep from * across.

Repeat Rows 1–2 for the pattern, changing colors as directed below.

Cup One (make 2 identical cups)

Set-up: With Moss, ch 21.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (20 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (20 sc)

Row 3 (begin chevron): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * across, ending with sc in last st. (20 sts)

Row 4: Ch 3, turn, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, dc in next st; rep from * across. (20 sts)

Row 5: Change to Lichen. Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * across. (20 sts)

Row 6: Ch 3, turn, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, dc in next st; rep from * across. (20 sts)

Row 7: Change to Pumpkin. Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * across. (20 sts)

Row 8: Ch 3, turn, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, dc in next st; rep from * across. (20 sts)

Rows 9–20: Continue the chevron stripe sequence, changing color every 2 rows in this order: Moss, Lichen, Pumpkin, Moss, Lichen, Pumpkin. Work Rows 9–20 exactly as Rows 5–8, repeating the two-row chevron pattern and changing color at the start of each odd-numbered row. (20 sts each row)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Your cup should measure approximately 6 inches wide and 5 inches tall. Make a second identical cup.

Edging (worked around each cup)

With Pumpkin, join yarn at the top right corner of one cup. Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire cup edge, working 1 sc in each stitch along the sides and 2 sc in each corner so the corners lie flat. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. Repeat for the second cup.

Joining the Cups

Place the two cups side by side with right sides facing up, aligning their inner edges. With Pumpkin, join yarn at the bottom inner corner. Ch 1, sc in each stitch along the inner edges, working through both layers to join them. Fasten off. The cups are now connected at the center front.

Back Strap

With Moss, ch 41.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (40 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (40 sc)

Row 3: Change to Lichen. Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (40 sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (40 sc)

Row 5: Change to Pumpkin. Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (40 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (40 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail (about 24 inches) for sewing.

Assembly and Finishing

Sewing the strap: Thread the long tail onto your tapestry needle. Sew one end of the back strap to the outer top corner of the left cup, then the other end to the outer top corner of the right cup. Use a simple whip stitch (bring the needle up through both layers, over the edge, and back up again) and keep your stitches small and even so the join is invisible from the front.

Sewing the bottom edge: Sew the bottom edge of the strap to the bottom outer corners of the cups, again using small whip stitches. This anchors the strap so it does not twist when worn.

Weaving in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and weave it back and forth through the back of the fabric for about 2 inches, then trim close to the fabric. Never knot your ends — knots work loose in the wash.

Blocking: Lightly mist the finished bralette with cool water, lay it flat on a towel, and gently pat each cup into a smooth triangle shape. Let it dry completely (about 4–6 hours). Blocking relaxes the stitches, evens out the chevron points, and gives the piece a professional finish.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the color story: Swap Pumpkin for cream and Lichen for dusty rose for a softer, everyday palette. The chevron pattern works in any three colors — just keep the two-row stripe rhythm.
• Adjust the size: For a larger cup, add 6 chains to your starting chain (each 6 chains adds one chevron repeat) and work 2 extra rows. For a smaller cup, remove 6 chains and 2 rows. Always keep the stitch count a multiple of 6 + 1.
• Substitute yarn: Cotton or cotton-blend worsted weight works beautifully and gives a crisper chevron. Check your gauge again if you switch fibers, because cotton behaves differently from acrylic.
• Make it a halter: Instead of the back strap, crochet two long chains (about 30 inches each) and attach them to the top outer corners of the cups to tie behind the neck.