Petal Border Square Nest: Free Crochet Pet Bed Pattern for Cats

A Cozy Little Nest for Your Favorite Feline

If you have ever wanted to make something soft, useful, and genuinely adorable with your own two hands, this is the project for you. The Petal Border Square Nest is a flat, square crochet mat with gently upturned edges and a whimsical petal trim, worked in plush chenille yarn in cream white and butter yellow. It is perfect for complete beginners because it uses only a handful of simple stitches, and the thick, fluffy yarn hides any tiny wobbles in your tension. The finished mat measures about 20 x 20 inches, feels thick and squishy under the paw, and has a soft ridged retro texture that cats love to knead before they curl up. Best of all, it works up quickly, so you can finish it in a weekend and watch your cat claim it as their own.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Super bulky (weight 6) chenille plush yarn, approximately 350 yards total: 250 yards cream white (Color A) and 100 yards butter yellow (Color B). You will hold two strands together throughout, so buy enough to work double-stranded.
• Crochet hook: 8.0 mm (US size L-11).
• Stitch markers: At least 4, to mark the beginning of each round and the corners.
• Tapestry needle: A large-eye blunt needle for weaving in the thick chenille ends.
• Scissors: Sharp craft scissors for cutting yarn.
• Finished size: Approximately 20 x 20 inches (51 x 51 cm) flat mat, with edges upturned about 1.5 inches (4 cm) to form a shallow nest.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every abbreviation used in this pattern is listed below with a plain-English explanation. If you have never crocheted before, read this section twice before you begin.

• ch – chain. Make a loop of yarn on your hook, then pull the yarn through the loop. Each loop you pull through is one chain stitch.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull the yarn through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time. This makes a tiny, flat joining stitch.
• sc – single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. One loop remains.
• hdc – half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops at once.
• hdc-blo – half double crochet in the back loop only. Work a normal half double crochet, but insert your hook only under the back loop of the stitch (the loop farthest from you) instead of under both loops. This creates a ridge.
• dc – double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through the last two loops.
• tr – treble crochet. Yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops three times. (Not used in this pattern, but listed so you recognize it.)
• st(s) – stitch or stitches.
• sp – space. The gap created by a chain, such as a ch-3 space.
• rep – repeat. Do the instruction again the number of times stated.
• blo – back loop only. See hdc-blo above.
• magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn that you crochet into, then pull tight to close the center hole.
• yarn over – wrap the working yarn over your hook from back to front.

Gauge

Gauge: 8 hdc x 7 rounds = 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm) in half double crochet worked in the back loop only.

Gauge matters because it tells you how big your finished mat will be. If your stitches are looser than the gauge, your mat will come out larger than 20 inches; if tighter, it will be smaller. To check your gauge, crochet a small square about 5 x 5 inches using the same yarn, hook, and two strands held together. Measure a 4-inch section in the middle and count how many stitches and rounds you get. If you have more than 8 stitches in 4 inches, try a larger hook. If you have fewer, try a smaller hook. Because this mat is worked in joined rounds, your round count is just as important as your stitch count.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use stitch markers. Place a marker in the first stitch of every round so you always know where to join. It is the single easiest way to avoid losing your place.
• Do not pull the yarn too tight. Chenille yarn is fluffy and snaps easily if you yank it. Keep your tension relaxed and even.
• Hold two strands together. Treat the two strands as one thick strand. This makes the mat extra plush and works up faster.
• Count your stitches at the end of every round. The counts are given in parentheses after each round. If you are off, fix it before moving on.
• Change colors in the last stitch. Work the final yarn-over of the last stitch of a round with the new color so the change is invisible.
• Keep your work flat. Rounds 1 through 11 should lie flat on the table. If it starts to cup or ruffle, your tension is too tight or too loose.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Notes: Work with two strands of chenille held together throughout. The body is worked in joined rounds; you do not turn your work. Each round begins with ch 2 (which counts as the first hdc) and ends with a sl st into the top of the beginning ch-2. Rounds 1 through 11 are worked through both loops for a dense, flat center. Rounds 12 through 14 are worked in the back loop only (hdc-blo) to create the ridged retro texture. Rounds 15 and 16 are worked through both loops again, which naturally lifts the edges upward into a shallow nest.

Body (with Color A, two strands held together)

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 2, work 11 hdc into the ring, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (12 hdc)

Round 2: Ch 2, hdc in the same st, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (24 hdc)

Round 3: Ch 2, hdc in the same st, *hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st; rep from * around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (36 hdc)

Round 4: Ch 2, hdc in the same st, *hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; rep from * around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (48 hdc)

Round 5: Ch 2, hdc in the same st, *hdc in the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; rep from * around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (60 hdc)

Round 6: Ch 2, hdc in the same st, *hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; rep from * around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (72 hdc)

Round 7: Ch 2, hdc in the same st, *hdc in the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; rep from * around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (84 hdc)

Round 8: Ch 2, hdc in the same st, *hdc in the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; rep from * around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (96 hdc)

Round 9: Ch 2, hdc in the same st, *hdc in the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; rep from * around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (108 hdc)

Round 10: Ch 2, hdc in the same st, *hdc in the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st; rep from * around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (120 hdc)

Round 11: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (120 hdc) Change to Color B in the last stitch of this round.

Butter Yellow Ridged Band (Color B, back loop only)

Round 12: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (120 hdc)

Round 13: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (120 hdc)

Round 14: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (120 hdc) Change back to Color A in the last stitch of this round.

Edge Lift (Color A, both loops)

Round 15: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (120 hdc)

Round 16: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to the top of the ch 2. (120 hdc) Fasten off Color A.

Petal Trim (Color B, two strands held together)

Round 17: Join Color B with a sl st in any st of Round 16, ch 1, sc in the same st, *ch 3, skip the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * around, ending with ch 3, sl st to the first sc. (60 ch-3 spaces)

Round 18 (petals): Ch 1, in each ch-3 sp around work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc); sl st to the first sc. (60 petals)

Round 19 (petal tips): *Sl st in the next sc (the sc between petals), ch 2, sl st in the top of the next dc (the petal tip), ch 2; rep from * around, sl st to the first sl st. Fasten off Color B.

Assembly and Finishing

There is no seaming in this project because the mat is worked in one continuous piece. Your finishing work is all about blocking and hiding ends.

• Weave in the ends: Thread each yarn tail onto your tapestry needle. Turn the mat to the wrong side and weave the tail under several stitches, then back in the opposite direction to lock it. Do not cut chenille too short; leave about 2 inches, knot gently, and weave it in.
• Steam-block the mat: Pin the mat to a 20 x 20 inch square on a blocking mat or a thick towel. Hold a steam iron a few inches above the fabric (never press it directly onto chenille) and let the steam relax the fibers. Gently coax the last two rounds upward to form the shallow nest edge. Do not press flat.
• Let it dry completely before removing the pins. This helps the square shape and the upturned edges hold.
• Optional cushioning: Place a thin 18 x 18 inch foam pad under the mat for extra support, especially for older cats.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap butter yellow for soft pink, sage green, or dusty blue. Keep the cream center for a classic retro look, or make the whole mat one color for a minimalist style.
• Adjust the size: To make a larger mat, continue the increase pattern from the body (adding one more hdc between increases each round) until you reach your desired width, then work the ridged band and edge rounds. To make a smaller mat, stop increasing earlier.
• Substitute yarn: Any super bulky weight 6 yarn works, but chenille gives the plushest result. If you use a smoother yarn, check your gauge again because the texture will change.
• Add a non-slip base: Cut a piece of shelf liner or non-slip rug pad to 18 x 18 inches and place it under the mat to keep it from sliding on hardwood floors.