Mission Control Crochet Backpack Free Pattern: Ocean Blue Cylinder Bag

Mission Control Crochet Backpack: Your First Space-Age Bag

Welcome to your very first crochet project! This Mission Control Backpack is the perfect first pattern because it is made almost entirely from one simple stitch — single crochet — worked in a circle. That means no complicated shaping, no confusing turning chains, and no sewing a flat piece into a tube. You simply build a round base, then go round and round straight up to make a cylinder, like stacking rings on a tower. The finished bag is about 9 inches tall and 8 inches across, with bold horizontal bands of deep ocean blue, teal, and pale aqua, topped with a navy edge. Two little round pockets sit on the front like control panels, and two flat straps let you carry it over your shoulder. The fabric comes out dense and sturdy — perfect for holding your phone, keys, and a snack on your next adventure.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4) acrylic or cotton blend, approximately 350–400 yards total, divided as follows:
  • 150 yards deep ocean blue (Color A)
  • 100 yards teal (Color B)
  • 70 yards pale aqua (Color C)
  • 30 yards navy (Color D)
• Crochet hook: D/3 (3.25 mm)
• Stitch marker (or a scrap of contrasting yarn) to mark the start of each round
• Tapestry needle (a big, blunt needle with a large eye) for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends
• Scissors
• Finished size: Body approx. 9 inches (23 cm) tall and 8 inches (20 cm) in diameter; each circle pocket approx. 3 inches (7.5 cm) across; each strap approx. 14 inches (35.5 cm) long and 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch — chain. Make a loop of yarn and pull another loop through it. Each chain looks like a tiny "V".
• sc — single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over (wrap yarn around hook), pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over again, pull through both loops. One loop remains.
• sl st — slip stitch. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, and pull that loop straight through the loop on your hook. It joins stitches without adding height.
• sc2tog — single crochet 2 together (a decrease). Insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. Turns 2 stitches into 1. (Not used in this pattern, but good to know.)
• st / sts — stitch / stitches.
• rnd — round. One complete circle of stitches worked around.
• MR — magic ring (also called magic circle). A loop of yarn you wrap around your fingers, then work stitches into, so you can pull the center closed tight with no hole.
• yarn over — wrap the working yarn around your hook from back to front.
• fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work, pull the tail all the way through the last loop, and tug gently to lock it.
• whipstitch — a simple sewing stitch: bring the needle up through both layers, over the edge, and back down, repeating in small even stitches.

Gauge

18 single crochet x 20 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm) worked in single crochet in the round.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rounds fit into 4 inches. If your stitches are looser or tighter than the pattern writer's, your bag will come out bigger or smaller than planned — and the base might not reach the 8-inch diameter. How to check: With your D/3 hook, chain 20, then work single crochet rows until your swatch is about 4 inches tall. Lay a ruler across the middle and count how many stitches fit in 4 inches. If you have more than 18, your stitches are tight — try a larger hook. If you have fewer than 18, your stitches are loose — try a smaller hook. It is fine to swatch in rows rather than rounds for a quick check.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Mark your first stitch of every round. Place your stitch marker in the very first single crochet you make each round. When you come back around, you will know exactly where the round began — no guessing, no miscounting.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Tension is the number one beginner struggle. Hold the yarn gently; your stitches should slide easily off the hook. Tight stitches make a stiff, small bag and sore hands.
• Count out loud (or in a whisper). Every round in the base tells you the exact stitch count in parentheses. Count your stitches at the end of each round before moving on. Catching a mistake early is far easier than fixing it later.
• Change colors at the join. When you switch colors, finish the last stitch of the old color by pulling the new color through the final yarn over. Then continue with the new color. This keeps the color change neat.
• Keep your magic ring tail handy. After Round 1, pull the short tail firmly to close the center hole completely. You can tug it again at the end.
• Relax and enjoy the rhythm. Once the base is done, the body is the same round repeated over and over. Put on a podcast and let your hands find the groove.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Bag Body — The Round Base

Worked in the round from the center outward. Each round begins with ch 1 (this does not count as a stitch) and ends by joining with a sl st to the first sc of the round.

Rnd 1: With Color A, make a magic ring. Ch 1. Work 8 sc into the ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (16 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (24 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (32 sc)

Rnd 5: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (40 sc)

Rnd 6: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (48 sc)

Rnd 7: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 5 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (56 sc)

Rnd 8: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (64 sc)

Rnd 9: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 7 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (72 sc)

Rnd 10: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 8 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (80 sc)

Rnd 11: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 9 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (88 sc)

Rnd 12: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (96 sc)

Rnd 13: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 11 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (104 sc)

Rnd 14: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (112 sc)

Rnd 15: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 13 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (120 sc)

Rnd 16 (base complete): Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (120 sc) — your base now measures approx. 8 inches (20 cm) across.

Bag Body — The Straight Tube

From here you work straight up with no increases, changing colors to create horizontal bands. Each round is the same: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st. (120 sc)

Rnds 17–24: With Color A, work the round as above. (120 sc) — 8 rounds deep ocean blue.

Rnds 25–32: Change to Color B (teal) and work the round as above. (120 sc) — 8 rounds teal.

Rnds 33–40: Change to Color C (pale aqua) and work the round as above. (120 sc) — 8 rounds pale aqua.

Rnds 41–48: Change to Color A and work the round as above. (120 sc) — 8 rounds deep ocean blue.

Rnds 49–56: Change to Color B and work the round as above. (120 sc) — 8 rounds teal.

Rnds 57–64: Change to Color C and work the round as above. (120 sc) — 8 rounds pale aqua.

Rnds 65–68: Change to Color D (navy) and work the round as above. (120 sc) — 4 rounds navy top band.

Fasten off and weave in the end. Your body now measures approx. 9 inches (23 cm) tall. Total: 68 rounds.

Circle Pockets (make 2)

Pocket 1 (teal with navy rim):

Rnd 1: With Color B, make a magic ring. Ch 1. Work 8 sc into the ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (16 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (24 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st. (32 sc)

Rnd 5: Change to Color D (navy). Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (32 sc)

Rnd 6: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (32 sc) Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail for sewing. Pocket measures approx. 3 inches (7.5 cm) across.

Pocket 2 (pale aqua with navy rim): Work exactly the same as Pocket 1, but use Color C for Rnds 1–4 and Color D for Rnds 5–6. Fasten off leaving a 12-inch tail.

Shoulder Straps (make 2)

Strap 1:

Row 1: With Color D (navy), ch 41. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (40 sc)

Rows 2–3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (40 sc)

Fasten off leaving a 12-inch tail. Strap measures approx. 14 inches (35.5 cm) long and 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.

Strap 2: Work exactly the same as Strap 1, but use Color A (deep ocean blue) for Rows 1–3. Fasten off leaving a 12-inch tail.

Assembly and Finishing

1. Block the body. Lightly mist the bag body with water (or steam it gently) and pat it into shape on a towel. Let it dry completely. This evens out your stitches and makes the bag look polished.

2. Sew on Pocket 1. Position the teal pocket centered on the front of the bag, about 2 inches (5 cm) below the top navy band. Pin it in place. Thread the 12-inch tail onto your tapestry needle and whipstitch around the lower half of the pocket only, going through the pocket edge and the bag fabric. Leave the top edge open so it forms a pocket. Secure the end on the inside.

3. Sew on Pocket 2. Place the pale aqua pocket about 1 inch (2.5 cm) to the right of Pocket 1, at the same height. Pin and sew around the lower half the same way, leaving the top open.

4. Attach Strap 1. Find the inside top edge of the bag. About 2 inches (5 cm) in from the left side, sew one end of the navy strap securely to the inside with a whipstitch, going through the strap end and the bag fabric several times. Attach the other end of the same strap to the inside top edge on the right side, mirroring the first attachment.

5. Attach Strap 2. Repeat with the blue strap, placing its ends about 2 inches (5 cm) inward from the Strap 1 attachments on both sides, so the two straps sit parallel and evenly spaced.

6. Weave in all ends. Thread each remaining yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and weave it back and forth through the inside of the fabric for about 2 inches, then trim close to the fabric.

7. Final block. Give the finished backpack one last light steam or mist to shape it. Check that all pocket and strap attachments feel secure — if in doubt, sew a second pass of stitches for extra strength. Your backpack is ready for launch!

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the color story. Swap the ocean blues for sunset oranges, forest greens, or a single solid color with a contrasting top band. Just keep the same yardage amounts and the same 8-round band rhythm.
• Make it bigger or smaller. To enlarge the bag, add one more increase round to the base (Rnd 17: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 14 sts; repeat around — 128 sc) and work the tube with 128 stitches. To shrink it, stop the base at Rnd 15 (120 sc) and work the tube from there.
• Try a different yarn. Cotton yarn gives a crisp, washable bag that holds its shape beautifully. Acrylic is softer and more affordable. Just check your gauge again — different fibers behave differently.
• Add a drawstring closure. Thread a 30-inch length of yarn or thin cord through the top navy band (in and out between stitches every few stitches), tie the ends, and pull to close the bag — a handy upgrade for keeping everything inside.