The Sundance Rainbow Ripple Blanket Free Pattern – A Knitted Chevron Wave with Hand-Dyed Stripes
The Sundance Rainbow Ripple Blanket: A Joyful Knitting Project
There's something truly magical about wrapping a little one in a blanket made with your own hands—especially when it's as vibrant and cheerful as the Sundance Rainbow Ripple Blanket. This stunning chevron-wave design features bold, hand-dyed rainbow stripes in red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet, all worked in a soft, squishy garter-stitch texture. The result is a dense, reversible fabric with beautiful peaks and valleys that add dimension and charm to any nursery.
Whether you're a seasoned knitter looking for a satisfying weekend project or a confident beginner ready to tackle your first ripple pattern, this free pattern is designed to guide you every step of the way. The rhythmic repetition of decreases and yarn overs creates a soothing, meditative flow, and the color changes keep things exciting as you watch the rainbow unfold row by row. Let's dive in and create an heirloom-quality piece that will be treasured for years to come.
Materials Needed
Before you begin, gather the following supplies. Having everything ready will make your knitting experience smooth and enjoyable.
Yarn
- Worsted weight (#4) cotton or cotton-blend yarn in 7 colors:
- Red (approx. 150g)
- Orange (approx. 150g)
- Yellow (approx. 150g)
- Green (approx. 150g)
- Blue (approx. 150g)
- Indigo (approx. 150g)
- Violet (approx. 150g)
- Soft cream yarn for edging (approx. 100g)
Needles & Tools
- US 8 (5.0 mm) circular knitting needle with a 32-inch cable (or longer—you'll need room for all those stitches)
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Scissors
- Stitch markers (optional, but helpful for keeping track of repeats)
Gauge
18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch (blocked). While gauge isn't critical for a blanket, matching it will help you achieve the intended size and drape.
Step-by-Step Instructions
This pattern is worked in one piece, back and forth in rows, using a simple ripple (chevron) stitch. The entire blanket is knitted in garter stitch (knit every row), which creates a dense, reversible fabric with a beautiful textured wave. Let's break it down step by step.
Blanket Size
The finished blanket measures approximately 30 x 36 inches—perfect for a crib, stroller, or cuddle time on the couch.
Stitch Abbreviations
- k = knit
- p = purl
- k2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- yo = yarn over
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Pattern Notes
- The blanket is worked in one piece, back and forth in rows.
- Each color stripe is worked in garter stitch (knit every row) to create a dense, reversible fabric.
- The ripple pattern is created by alternating decreases (k2tog and ssk) with yarn overs (yo) to form peaks and valleys.
- Work all rows as written—do not turn your work differently than instructed.
Foundation Row
With Red yarn, cast on 153 stitches loosely. A loose cast-on is essential here—if your cast-on is too tight, the bottom edge will pucker. Consider using a larger needle for the cast-on row or a stretchy cast-on method like the long-tail cast-on.
Rows 1–2: Getting Started
- Row 1 (RS): Knit all stitches.
- Row 2 (WS): Knit all stitches.
These two rows establish the garter stitch base and give your blanket a clean, solid foundation before the ripple pattern begins.
Begin Ripple Pattern
Now we'll start the chevron wave. The pattern repeat is 12 stitches, and you'll work it across the row. Here's how it breaks down:
- Row 3 (RS): *K2tog, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, ssk*; repeat from * to * across to last 3 stitches, k3.
- Row 4 (WS): Knit all stitches.
- Row 5 (RS): Repeat Row 3.
- Row 6 (WS): Knit all stitches.
Let's break down Row 3 so you understand what's happening:
- K2tog, k2tog: Two right-leaning decreases. These form the left side of the valley (the downward slope).
- K1: A simple knit stitch.
- Yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1: Four yarn overs separated by knit stitches. These create the peak (the upward slope) and add stitches to maintain the count.
- Ssk, ssk: Two left-leaning decreases. These form the right side of the valley.
Notice that each repeat uses 12 stitches (2+2+1+1+1+1+1+1+1+2+2 = 15? Let's recount: k2tog (2 stitches used), k2tog (2 stitches used), k1 (1 stitch), yo (0 stitches used, 1 added), k1 (1 stitch), yo (0 used, 1 added), k1 (1 stitch), yo (0 used, 1 added), k1 (1 stitch), yo (0 used, 1 added), k1 (1 stitch), ssk (2 stitches used), ssk (2 stitches used). Total stitches used: 2+2+1+1+1+1+1+1+1+2+2 = 15 stitches. Stitches added: 4 yarn overs. Net stitch change: -2 (decreases) + 4 (increases) = +2 stitches per repeat. Wait—that doesn't maintain the count!
Correction: Let me re-examine the pattern. The repeat as written uses 15 stitches and adds 4 stitches via yarn overs, while decreasing 4 stitches (2 k2tog + 2 ssk). So the net change is 0 stitches. Perfect! The repeat is actually 15 stitches, not 12. Let me verify: 153 stitches - 3 (the final k3) = 150. 150 ÷ 15 = 10 repeats exactly. So the repeat is 15 stitches, and you'll work it 10 times across, ending with k3. This makes sense now.
So the correct repeat is: *K2tog, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, ssk* (15 stitches), repeated 10 times, then k3.
Let me clarify the stitch count for you:
- Each repeat uses 15 stitches and produces 15 stitches (4 decreases + 4 yarn overs = net 0).
- 10 repeats × 15 stitches = 150 stitches.
- Plus the final 3 stitches = 153 stitches total. ✓
This is a beautiful, balanced ripple pattern. The k2tog and ssk decreases create the valleys, while the yarn overs create the peaks. The result is a gentle wave that's both visually striking and wonderfully textured.
Continue the Ripple Pattern
Repeat Rows 3–6 for a total of 24 rows (about 4 inches) in Red. That means you'll work Rows 3–6 six times (24 rows ÷ 4 rows per repeat = 6 repeats).
Here's a helpful tip: Place a stitch marker after every repeat (every 15 stitches) on Row 3. This will help you keep track of your place and catch any mistakes early. You can remove them after a few rows once you're comfortable with the rhythm.
Color Changes
Changing colors is simple and creates those beautiful rainbow stripes. Here's how to do it:
- At the end of the 24th row (WS), cut the Red yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.
- Join Orange yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches.
- Work the next 24 rows (Rows 3–6 repeated 6 times) in Orange, following the same ripple pattern.
- Continue in this way, changing colors every 24 rows, through the rainbow order: Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.
- After completing the Violet stripe, work an additional 24 rows in Red to create a balanced border stripe at the top.
When joining a new color, simply start knitting with the new yarn, leaving a tail to weave in later. There's no need to tie knots—the garter stitch will hold everything securely once you weave in the ends.
Edging
Once all your stripes are complete, it's time to add the beautiful cream border. This edging frames the rainbow and gives the blanket a polished, finished look.
- With the right side facing, join Cream yarn at any corner using a slip stitch.
- Round 1: Work single crochet (sc) evenly around the entire edge, working 3 sc in each corner to turn the corner smoothly. Slip stitch to join.
- Round 2: Chain 1, then *sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in the corner scs*; slip stitch to join.
- Fasten off and weave in all ends.
If you're not comfortable with crochet, you can substitute a knitted edging instead. Simply pick up stitches around the edge and knit a few rows of garter stitch, working increases at the corners. However, the single crochet border is quick, clean, and adds a lovely crisp finish.
Finishing
The final steps are crucial for achieving that beautiful, professional look:
- Block the blanket gently to even out the ripples and open up the yarn overs. This is especially important for cotton yarn, which benefits from blocking to relax the fibers.
- To block, soak the blanket in lukewarm water with a gentle wool wash (or mild detergent) for about 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water—never wring or twist.
- Lay the blanket flat on a clean towel, roll it up to remove more water, then unroll and shape it to the correct dimensions (30 x 36 inches).
- Pin the edges if needed to keep the shape, especially the ripple points. Let it dry completely.
- Once dry, weave in all remaining ends securely with your tapestry needle. Make sure to weave in the tails from your color changes and the edging.
Tips for Success
- Keep your tension consistent. The ripple pattern is forgiving, but consistent tension will make your waves even and beautiful.
- Count your stitches regularly. After each repeat of Row 3, you should have the same number of stitches. If you're off, check your yarn overs and decreases.
- Use stitch markers between repeats on the first few rows to help you stay on track.
- Don't rush the color changes. Take your time to weave in ends as you go, or leave them all for the end—just be consistent.
- Blocking is non-negotiable. This step transforms your blanket from "homemade" to "heirloom." The yarn overs will open up, and the ripples will lie flat and even.
A Rainbow of Possibilities
The Sundance Rainbow Ripple Blanket is more than just a baby gift—it's a statement piece. The bold, joyful colors bring warmth and personality to any space, and the textured chevron pattern is as delightful to touch as it is to look at. Whether you're making it for your own little one, a grandchild, or a friend's baby shower, this blanket is sure to become a cherished keepsake.
And here's the best part: once you've mastered the ripple pattern, you can adapt it endlessly. Try pastel colors for a softer look, or use a single color for a more minimalist aesthetic. You could even make a larger version for a throw blanket or a smaller one for a lovey. The possibilities are as endless as your imagination.
So grab your needles, pick your rainbow, and let the soothing rhythm of the ripple stitch carry you away. Happy knitting!