Oatmeal Stitched Grin Snowman Pillow Free Crochet Pattern

Oatmeal Stitched Grin Snowman Pillow — Free Beginner Crochet Pattern

Introduction

If you have never held a crochet hook before, this is the perfect first project to fall in love with. The Oatmeal Stitched Grin Snowman Pillow is a flat, round cushion worked in soft oatmeal cotton, then given a personality with a simple charcoal cross-stitch grin and two little button eyes. It has a modern, understated Halloween mood — more cozy than spooky — and it looks lovely propped on a sofa, a bed, or a reading chair. The finished pillow is about 12 inches (30.5 cm) across, plump and firm, with a gentle single crochet texture and a clean stitched edge. Because it is made from two identical circles joined together, you only need to learn one stitch, and you will practice it enough to feel completely confident by the time you finish.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted-weight (medium, category 4) cotton yarn. You need about 180 yards (approx. 4 oz / 1 skein) of oatmeal for the main color, plus a small amount — about 10 yards — of charcoal for the embroidery.
• Crochet hook: US G-6 / 4.0 mm.
• Stitch marker (one is enough; a safety pin or scrap of contrasting yarn works too).
• Tapestry needle (a blunt, large-eyed needle for embroidery and weaving in ends).
• Scissors.
• Polyester fiberfill for stuffing (a handful or two; about 2–3 oz).
• Two small charcoal buttons, approximately 1/2 inch / 12 mm across, for the eyes.
• Matching sewing thread and a sewing needle for attaching the buttons.

Finished size: Approximately 12 inches / 30.5 cm in diameter.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch — chain. Make a loop of yarn over the hook and pull it through the loop already on your hook. This creates a small linked loop.
• sc — single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over (wrap the yarn around the hook), pull up a loop (you now have 2 loops on the hook), yarn over again, and pull through both loops. One single crochet made.
• sl st — slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull the yarn straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. It makes a nearly invisible joining stitch.
• sc2tog — single crochet two stitches together (a decrease). Insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop; insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop; yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook. Two stitches become one. (You will not need this for this pattern, but it is good to know.)
• st / sts — stitch / stitches.
• magic ring — an adjustable ring. You wrap the yarn into a loop, work your first stitches into that loop, then pull the tail tight to close the center hole completely. It gives a neat, gap-free start to a circle.
• 2 sc in next st — work two single crochets into the same stitch. This is an increase and makes the circle grow.
• [ ] — brackets. Everything inside the brackets is repeated the number of times stated after the bracket.
• around — work all the way around the circle until you reach your stitch marker again.
• fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work, then pull the tail through the last loop on your hook to lock it.
• weave in ends — thread the loose tail onto a tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the back of your work so it disappears.

Gauge

Gauge: 16 single crochet stitches x 18 rounds = 4 inches / 10 cm worked in single crochet in the round.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is simply how big your stitches come out. If your stitches are larger than the pattern expects, your pillow will be bigger than 12 inches; if they are smaller, it will be smaller. Matching gauge means your finished pillow will be the size promised and your stuffing will fill it nicely.

How to make a gauge swatch: With your oatmeal yarn and 4.0 mm hook, make a magic ring, work 6 sc into it, then increase as in Rounds 2–8 of the pattern below. Measure across the flat circle. A swatch of about 4 inches (10 cm) across should contain roughly 16 stitches around its outer edge and 18 rounds from center to edge. If your circle is bigger, switch to a smaller hook (US E-4 / 3.5 mm); if it is smaller, switch to a larger hook (US H-8 / 5.0 mm).

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use your stitch marker every single round. Place it in the very first stitch of each round. When you come back around and meet the marker, you know the round is complete — no guessing, no miscounting.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Tension should feel relaxed. If your stitches squeak or the hook fights you, you are pulling too hard. Loose, even stitches make a soft, flat pillow.
• Count your stitches at the end of every round. The count in parentheses is your safety net. If you are off by one or two, fix it now rather than discovering it 20 rounds later.
• Work the two circles one after the other. The second circle is always easier and faster than the first — that is normal, and it is a great confidence boost.
• Embroider the face before joining. It is far easier to work the cross-stitch grin on a flat, single circle than on a stuffed pillow.
• Stuff firmly but evenly. Add small handfuls at a time and push them toward the edges so the pillow keeps a round, plump shape.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Front and Back Circles (make 2 identical)

With oatmeal, make a magic ring. Each round is worked in a continuous spiral — do not join at the end of each round unless told to. Move your stitch marker up into the first stitch of each new round.

Round 1: Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull the ring closed. Place a stitch marker in the first st. (6 sc)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Round 3: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st] around. (18 sc)

Round 4: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts] around. (24 sc)

Round 5: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts] around. (30 sc)

Round 6: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts] around. (36 sc)

Round 7: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts] around. (42 sc)

Round 8: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts] around. (48 sc)

Round 9: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts] around. (54 sc)

Round 10: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 8 sts] around. (60 sc)

Round 11: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 9 sts] around. (66 sc)

Round 12: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 10 sts] around. (72 sc)

Round 13: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts] around. (78 sc)

Round 14: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 12 sts] around. (84 sc)

Round 15: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 13 sts] around. (90 sc)

Round 16: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 14 sts] around. (96 sc)

Round 17: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 15 sts] around. (102 sc)

Round 18: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 16 sts] around. (108 sc)

Round 19: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 17 sts] around. (114 sc)

Round 20: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 18 sts] around. (120 sc)

Round 21: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 19 sts] around. (126 sc)

Round 22: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 20 sts] around. (132 sc)

Round 23: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 21 sts] around. (138 sc)

Round 24: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 22 sts] around. (144 sc)

Round 25: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 23 sts] around. (150 sc)

Round 26: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 24 sts] around. (156 sc)

Round 27: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 25 sts] around. (162 sc)

Round 28: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 26 sts] around. (168 sc)

Round 29: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 27 sts] around. (174 sc)

Round 30: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 28 sts] around. (180 sc)

Round 31: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 29 sts] around. (186 sc)

Round 32: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 30 sts] around. (192 sc)

Round 33: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 31 sts] around. (198 sc)

Round 34: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 32 sts] around. (204 sc)

Round 35: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 33 sts] around. (210 sc)

Round 36: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 34 sts] around. (216 sc)

Round 37: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 35 sts] around. (222 sc)

Round 38: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 36 sts] around. (228 sc)

Round 39: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 37 sts] around. (234 sc)

Round 40: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 38 sts] around. (240 sc)

Round 41: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 39 sts] around. (246 sc)

Round 42: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 40 sts] around. (252 sc)

Round 43: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 41 sts] around. (258 sc)

Round 44: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 42 sts] around. (264 sc)

Round 45: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 43 sts] around. (270 sc)

Round 46: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 44 sts] around. (276 sc)

Round 47: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 45 sts] around. (282 sc)

Round 48: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 46 sts] around. (288 sc)

Round 49: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 47 sts] around. (294 sc)

Round 50: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 48 sts] around. (300 sc)

Round 51: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 49 sts] around. (306 sc)

Round 52: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 50 sts] around. (312 sc)

Round 53: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 51 sts] around. (318 sc)

Round 54: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 52 sts] around. (324 sc)

Round 55: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 53 sts] around. (330 sc)

Round 56: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 54 sts] around. (336 sc)

Round 57: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 55 sts] around. (342 sc)

Round 58: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 56 sts] around. (348 sc)

Round 59: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 57 sts] around. (354 sc)

Round 60: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 58 sts] around. (360 sc)

Fasten off and weave in ends. The circle should measure approximately 12 inches / 30.5 cm across. Make a second identical circle for the back.

Embroidery (worked on the front circle before joining)

Thread your tapestry needle with charcoal yarn and use 2 strands for a bold, visible line. Work cross-stitches to create a simple curved grin across the lower half of the front circle. The grin should span approximately 4 inches / 10 cm wide and sit about 2 inches / 5 cm below the center. Work each cross-stitch over one single crochet stitch, making a row of X shapes that follow a gentle upward curve at the ends. To make one cross-stitch: bring the needle up through the fabric, make a diagonal stitch, then cross back over it in the opposite direction to form an X. Keep the stitches even and snug, but do not pull so hard that the cotton puckers.

Eyes: Sew two charcoal buttons approximately 2 inches / 5 cm apart and 2 inches / 5 cm above the grin, centered on the face. Use matching sewing thread and a sewing needle, and sew securely through the front circle only — do not let the thread show on the back.

Joining and Finishing

Place the front and back circles together with wrong sides facing (or right sides facing if you prefer a seam ridge on the outside).

Joining Round 1: With oatmeal, join yarn at any point on the outer edge. Work 1 sc through both layers around the entire circumference, inserting the hook through both circles at once. Work approximately 1 sc in each stitch around, keeping the stitches even. After working about 3/4 of the way around, stuff the pillow firmly with polyester fiberfill, then continue working sc to close the opening. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (Approx. 360 sc)

Fasten off and weave in ends. Gently shape the pillow and distribute the stuffing evenly.

Optional Hanging Loop

Chain 12, join with a sl st to form a ring, and sew the ring to the top edge of the pillow using oatmeal yarn and your tapestry needle.

Assembly and Finishing

Seaming: The joining round is your seam. Hold the two circles together and push your hook through the matching stitches of both layers at the same time, then work your single crochet as usual. Keep your tension even so the seam lies flat and does not pucker. When you reach the last few inches, add any final stuffing, then close the gap completely and join with a slip stitch.

Weaving in ends: Thread each loose tail onto your tapestry needle. Turn the pillow to the inside and sew the tail back and forth through several stitches in one direction, then reverse direction for a few stitches to lock it. Trim the yarn close to the fabric.

Blocking: Lightly steam the pillow if desired to smooth the edges. Hold a steam iron a few inches above the surface — never press the iron directly onto the cotton, as this flattens the stitch texture. Let the pillow air-dry completely before using it.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the mood with color. Swap the oatmeal for soft gray, cream, or pale sage, and use black, rust, or deep plum for the grin and buttons. The same pattern becomes cozy, modern, or spooky depending on your palette.
• Adjust the size. To make a smaller 8-inch pillow, stop the circles after Round 40 (240 sc) and join as written. To make a larger 16-inch pillow, continue the increase rounds until the circle measures 16 inches across, then join. Always match your two circles exactly.
• Substitute the yarn. Any worsted-weight yarn works — acrylic is softer and more affordable, while cotton gives a crisper, more structured finish. Just check your gauge again, since different fibers behave differently.
• Try a different face. Instead of a grin, embroider a simple stitched smile with a straight line, or add a small charcoal pom-pom nose for a more playful snowman look.