Feathered Frond Half Wreath Free Pattern: Filet Crochet Lavender & Mint Autumn Crescent

Feathered Frond Half Wreath: A Free Filet Crochet Pattern in Lavender & Mint

Introduction

If you have ever admired a delicate wreath in a shop window and thought, "I could never make that," this project is for you. The Feathered Frond Half Wreath is a crescent-shaped wall hanging worked flat in filet crochet — a technique that turns simple squares of solid and open stitches into a picture. You will use just two colors of recycled cotton: soft lavender for the feather-frond shapes and fresh mint for the airy background. The finished piece measures about 30 cm (12 in) across the top and 15 cm (6 in) deep at the center, with a small crocheted strap so it hangs on any door hook or nail. It feels light and matte, with crisp stitch definition and a gentle handmade texture that looks lovely all autumn long — and honestly, all year.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Recycled cotton DK weight (approx. 125 m / 137 yd per 50 g ball). You need 1 ball lavender (Color A) and 1 ball mint (Color B). The sample uses approx. 30 g of A and 25 g of B, so one ball of each is plenty.
• Crochet hook: 3.5 mm (US E/4), or whatever size gets you the gauge below.
• Stitch markers: at least 4 (to mark block counts and color changes).
• Tapestry needle: a blunt-tipped needle with a large eye for sewing the strap and weaving in ends.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Blocking supplies: a towel and rust-proof pins, plus a spray bottle of water.
• Finished size: approx. 30 cm / 12 in wide across the widest part (top of the crescent) and approx. 15 cm / 6 in deep at the center. The hanging strap adds approx. 6 cm / 2.5 in.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every term below is explained as if you have never held a hook. Read this list once before you begin — it is your dictionary for the whole pattern.

• ch – chain. Make a loop of yarn on your hook (a slip knot), then wrap yarn over the hook and pull it through the loop on your hook. That is one chain. Chains are the foundation you build on.
• dc – double crochet. Wrap yarn over the hook, insert the hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops left), wrap yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops. One dc made.
• sc – single crochet. Insert hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), wrap yarn over and pull through both loops. One sc made.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over and pull it straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook. It makes a nearly invisible joining or moving stitch.
• st(s) – stitch(es). One completed loop or post on your work.
• ch-2 sp – chain-2 space. The little gap made by working two chains and skipping two stitches. In filet crochet this gap is an "open block."
• RS – right side. The front of the work, the side that faces out when hanging.
• WS – wrong side. The back of the work.
• Solid block – a filled square made of 4 dc worked over 4 stitches (1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, plus the dc that closes the block).
• Open block – an empty square made of 1 dc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, 1 dc.
• Turn – flip your work over so you can work back across the row you just finished.
• Fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from the work and pull the tail through the last loop to lock it.

Gauge

Filet gauge: 4 filet blocks = 10 cm / 4 in wide; 4 filet rows = 10 cm / 4 in tall. In other words, one block (1 dc or ch-2 space + 1 dc) is approx. 2.5 cm / 1 in square.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is simply how big your stitches come out. If your blocks are larger than 2.5 cm, your wreath will be bigger than 30 cm wide and may run short on yarn; if smaller, it will shrink. How to check: with mint yarn and your 3.5 mm hook, ch 26 and work 4 rows of open blocks (1 dc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, repeat). Measure the middle 4 blocks across and 4 rows tall. If you get more blocks than 4 in 10 cm, your stitches are too small — try a larger hook. If fewer, try a smaller hook. Your row count (28 rows) is designed to match this gauge, so a quick swatch saves you a whole re-do.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Count your blocks at the end of every row. There must always be 12 blocks in Rows 1–16. If you are off by one, fix it now rather than three rows later.
• Use stitch markers. Place one in the first and last block of each row, and one wherever the color changes, so you never lose your place.
• Do not pull the yarn too tight. Filet crochet needs relaxed, even tension so the open mint squares stay square and airy. If your ch-2 spaces look pinched, loosen up.
• Carry the unused color loosely up the side edge. Twist the two yarns around each other at every color change so no gap appears, and keep the carried strand relaxed — not tight — or the edge will pucker.
• Read the block chart left to right on RS rows and right to left on WS rows. The chart is written in the order you work each row, so just follow it block by block.
• Work the first dc of every row as ch 3. That chain counts as your first double crochet — do not also work a dc into that same stitch.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Set-Up and Mint Ground

Work flat, back and forth in rows, reading the chart from the bottom up. Each row has 12 blocks.

Row 1 (RS): With mint (B), ch 50. Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 ch, *ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch (open block); rep from * to last 4 ch, dc in each of last 4 ch. Turn. (12 blocks: 2 solid at each end, 8 open between)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, dc in next 3 sts (solid block), *ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st (open block); rep from * to last 4 sts, dc in each of last 4 sts. Turn. (12 blocks)

Rows 3–4: Repeat Row 2 twice more in mint. (12 blocks; 4 rows of mint ground complete, piece measures approx. 2.5 cm / 1 in)

Lavender Fronds (Color A)

The chart below is written block by block, 12 blocks per row. S = solid block (lavender), O = open block (mint). Work each row as: ch 3, then for each block work either S (dc in each of next 3 sts) or O (ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st), ending with a dc in the final st. Turn at the end of every row. Change color by working the last yarn-over of the final dc of a block in the new color.

Row 5: O O S S S S S S O O O O (12 blocks)
Row 6: O S S S S S S S S O O O (12 blocks)
Row 7: O S S O S S S S S S O O (12 blocks)
Row 8: S S S O S S S S S S S O (12 blocks)
Row 9: S S O O S S O S S S S S (12 blocks)
Row 10: S S O O S S O O S S S S (12 blocks)
Row 11: S O O O S S O O S S S S (12 blocks)
Row 12: S O O O S O O O S S S S (12 blocks)
Row 13: O O O O S O O O S S S O (12 blocks)
Row 14: O O O O O O O O S S O O (12 blocks)
Row 15: O O O O O O O O S O O O (12 blocks)
Row 16: O O O O O O O O O O O O (12 blocks)

The solid lavender blocks form three tapering feather-frond shapes that fan upward and outward from the lower left toward the upper right, thinning to single-block tips by Rows 13–15. Count your blocks at the end of every row: there must always be 12.

Shape the Crescent (Decrease Rows)

These stepped decreases along both ends create the crescent: the top edge stays full width (30 cm / 12 in) while the lower edge curves up to a single-block point at the right.

Row 17 (RS): Sl st across first 2 sts (1 block decreased), ch 3, work in pattern to end of row, turn. (11 blocks)

Row 18: Work in pattern to last 4 sts, leave last 4 sts unworked, turn. (10 blocks)

Row 19: Sl st across first 2 sts, ch 3, work in pattern to end, turn. (9 blocks)

Row 20: Work in pattern to last 4 sts, leave unworked, turn. (8 blocks)

Row 21: Sl st across first 2 sts, ch 3, work in pattern to end, turn. (7 blocks)

Row 22: Work in pattern to last 4 sts, leave unworked, turn. (6 blocks)

Row 23: Sl st across first 2 sts, ch 3, work in pattern to end, turn. (5 blocks)

Row 24: Work in pattern to last 4 sts, leave unworked, turn. (4 blocks)

Row 25: Sl st across first 2 sts, ch 3, work in pattern to end, turn. (3 blocks)

Row 26: Work in pattern to last 4 sts, leave unworked, turn. (2 blocks)

Row 27: Sl st across first 2 sts, ch 3, dc in each of next 3 sts, dc in last st. Turn. (1 solid block)

Row 28: Ch 3, dc in each of next 3 sts, dc in last st. Fasten off lavender. (1 block)

Edging (Plain sc, Mint)

With RS facing and mint (B), join with sl st at the lower right corner of the crescent. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire outer edge: 1 sc in each dc and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp along the top edge, 1 sc in each row-end along the stepped sides, and 3 sc in the single-block tip to turn the corner smoothly. Join with sl st to first sc. Do not work into the inner (lower) edge of the crescent. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Hanging Strap

With mint (B), ch 16.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (15 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Fasten off, leaving a 15 cm / 6 in tail. (15 sc)

Assembly and Finishing

Attaching the strap: Fold the strap in half so the two short ends meet. Place both ends against the center of the top edge of the wreath, approx. 2.5 cm / 1 in apart, with the loop pointing up. Thread the 15 cm tail onto your tapestry needle and sew each end firmly to the wreath, passing through the strap and the wreath edge several times. Reinforce with a second pass of stitching — the strap carries the whole weight of the piece.

Weaving in ends: Thread each loose tail onto the tapestry needle and run it through the back of several stitches (about 5 cm / 2 in), then back through a few stitches in the opposite direction to lock it. Trim close to the work. Never knot your ends — knots can work loose and show through the open filet squares.

Blocking: Pin the wreath right side down on a towel to the finished measurements (30 cm wide at top, 15 cm deep at center). Mist lightly with water until damp but not soaking, and leave to dry fully — usually overnight. Blocking opens the mint filet ground and sharpens the lavender frond shapes, so do not skip it.

Hanging: Slip the strap over a door hook or wall nail. The crescent hangs with the solid lavender fronds fanning upward and the open mint ground showing through behind them.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap lavender for dusty rose and mint for cream for a spring version, or use deep rust and oatmeal for a richer autumn palette. Keep one color solid for the fronds and one light for the open ground so the pattern stays readable.
• Adjust the size: Add or remove blocks in multiples of 2 to the starting chain (each block = 2 stitches) to make the wreath wider or narrower, and add or remove rows before the decrease section to make it deeper. Keep the decrease rows exactly as written so the crescent shape stays crisp.
• Substitute yarn: Any DK-weight cotton or cotton-blend works — just swatch first, since gauge controls the finished size. Avoid fuzzy or highly textured yarns, which blur the filet blocks.
• Make it a pair: Work a second wreath in reversed colors (mint fronds on lavender ground) and hang them as a matching set on either side of a door or window.