Amigurumi Patterns

Luna the Moon Bunny Rattle: Free Crochet Pattern for a Fairycore Baby Toy

KnittingMode: Unlock Your Creative Loop • October 27, 2026
Luna the Moon Bunny Rattle: Free Crochet Pattern for a Fairycore Baby Toy

Luna the Moon Bunny Rattle: Free Crochet Pattern for a Fairycore Baby Toy

Introduction

Meet Luna, a dreamy little moon bunny who fits right in the palm of your hand. This project is perfect for complete beginners who have never held a crochet hook before, because it uses only one stitch (single crochet) and a few simple increases and decreases. What makes Luna special is her soft lavender color, her long floppy ears, and the gentle rattle ring she carries, which makes her a sweet handmade gift for a new baby. When finished, she looks like a smooth, egg-shaped bunny about 3.5 inches tall, with a small round head, a tiny blush nose, and ears that flop naturally to the sides. She feels soft, squishy, and light, and the covered wooden ring gives little hands something easy to grab.

Materials Needed

  • Yarn: DK (weight 3 / light) yarn. Soft lavender: approx. 40 yards (main color). Pale cream: approx. 10 yards (accent). Blush pink: a small amount for the nose. A cotton or acrylic blend is recommended for a smooth, baby-safe finish.
  • Crochet hook: C/2 (2.75 mm).
  • Stitch marker: 1, to mark the first stitch of each round.
  • Tapestry needle: a blunt-tipped needle with a large eye, for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
  • Scissors.
  • Stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
  • Rattle insert: one small plastic rattle insert, or a tiny jingle bell enclosed in a securely knotted fabric pouch.
  • Craft ring: one wooden or plastic 2-inch (5 cm) ring for the rattle handle.

Finished size: body approx. 3.5 inches tall and 2.5 inches wide; ears approx. 3 inches long; finished rattle approx. 6.5 inches tall including the ring.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

  • ch – chain: wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it through the loop on your hook. This makes a small linked loop.
  • sc – single crochet: insert your hook into the next stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook, pull up a loop (you now have 2 loops on the hook), wrap the yarn over again, and pull through both loops. One sc is complete.
  • sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (a decrease): insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop, insert your hook into the following stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap the yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
  • sl st – slip stitch: insert your hook into the next stitch, wrap the yarn over, and pull it through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time. This joins without adding height.
  • st(s) – stitch(es): one completed loop of yarn in your work.
  • rnd – round: one full circle of stitches worked around.
  • MR – magic ring: a loop of yarn you pull closed after working your first stitches into it, which leaves no hole in the center. Make a loop, work your stitches into the loop, then pull the short tail to tighten it.
  • FO – fasten off: cut the yarn a few inches from your work, then pull the tail through the last loop on your hook to lock it.
  • 2 sc in next st – work two single crochets into the same stitch. This is an increase and adds one stitch.
  • [ ] – brackets: repeat the instructions inside the brackets the number of times stated after them.

Gauge

24 sc x 26 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet worked in the round.

Gauge means how many stitches and rounds fit into a set measurement. It matters because it keeps your bunny the right size and makes sure your stuffing does not peek through the stitches. To check your gauge, crochet a small flat swatch of single crochet about 4 inches wide, then lay a ruler across the middle and count how many stitches fit in 4 inches. If you have more than 24, your stitches are too tight, so try a slightly larger hook. If you have fewer, your stitches are too loose, so try a smaller hook. For amigurumi, working tightly is more important than matching the number exactly, so aim for a dense fabric with no gaps.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

  • Use a stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of each round so you always know where a round begins and ends. Move it up as you go.
  • Do not pull the yarn too tight. Keep an even, gentle tension. Very tight stitches are hard to work into and can make your hands ache.
  • Work in continuous spirals. Do not join rounds or turn your work unless the pattern says so. You will spiral around and around like a snail shell.
  • Count every round. Say the stitch count out loud at the end of each round. It is the easiest way to catch a mistake early.
  • Stuff as you go. Add fiberfill before the opening gets too small, and use small pieces rather than one big clump so the shape stays smooth.
  • Keep the rattle insert centered. Place it in the middle of the stuffing so it jingles evenly and stays safely inside.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Notes: Work in continuous spirals unless stated otherwise. Do not join rounds; use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round. All stitches are US terms.

Body (lavender; egg shape)

Rnd 1: Make a MR, work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: [Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (30 sts)

Rnds 6–10: Sc in each st around. (30 sts for 5 rounds)

Rnd 11: [Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog] around. (24 sts)

Rnd 12: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)

Rnd 13: [Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog] around. (18 sts)

Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Stuff now. Stuff the body firmly but not overstuffed, shaping it into a gentle egg (wider at the bottom, narrowing toward the top). If using a rattle insert, place it in the center of the stuffing now.

Rnd 15: [Sc in next st, sc2tog] around. (12 sts)

Rnd 16: Sc2tog around. (6 sts)

FO, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the remaining 6 sts and pull closed. Weave in the end.

Head (lavender; small sphere)

Rnd 1: Make a MR, work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. (18 sts)

Rnds 4–6: Sc in each st around. (18 sts for 3 rounds)

Rnd 7: [Sc in next st, sc2tog] around. (12 sts)

Stuff the head lightly and firmly.

Rnd 8: Sc2tog around. (6 sts)

FO, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the remaining 6 sts and pull closed. Do not weave in yet; use this tail to sew the head to the top of the body.

Ears (make 2; lavender)

Rnd 1: Make a MR, work 4 sc into the ring. (4 sts)

Rnd 2: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. (6 sts)

Rnd 3: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (8 sts)

Rnds 4–12: Sc in each st around. (8 sts for 9 rounds)

Rnd 13: Sc2tog around. (4 sts)

FO, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff the ears; flatten them gently. Use the tails to sew the ears to the top of the head, one on each side, angling them slightly outward so they flop naturally.

Nose (blush pink; tiny oval)

Rnd 1: Make a MR, work 4 sc into the ring. (4 sts)

Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (4 sts)

FO, leaving a tail. Sew the nose to the front of the head, centered just below the middle of the face.

Rattle Ring Handle

Cut a 12-inch length of lavender yarn. Tie one end securely to the craft ring with a tight knot. Holding the yarn double if desired, work sc closely around the ring, covering it completely (approximately 24–30 sc around a 2-inch ring). Sl st to the first sc to join. FO and weave in ends.

Assembly and Finishing

1. Attach the head. Thread the head's long tail onto your tapestry needle. Hold the head against the top of the body and stitch through both pieces several times, going all the way around the join, for a baby-safe connection. Pull gently to snug the head down, then weave in the tail.

2. Sew on the ears. Thread an ear tail onto the needle. Place the ear on top of the head, slightly to one side, and stitch it down firmly through the base of the ear and into the head. Repeat with the second ear on the other side, angling both slightly outward and downward for a floppy look.

3. Sew on the nose. Thread the pink tail onto the needle and stitch the nose to the front of the head, centered just below the middle of the face. Go around the edge of the nose a few times so it sits flat.

4. Attach the rattle ring. Using lavender yarn and your needle, stitch the covered ring to the side of the body (or between the body and head) with several strong stitches. Tug gently to test that it is secure.

5. Weave in all ends. Thread each remaining tail onto the needle, run it through the inside of the work for about an inch, then trim close to the fabric.

6. Shape and fluff. Gently squeeze the body and head into a smooth egg and sphere, and bend the ears so they flop. No blocking is needed for amigurumi; simply smooth the stitches with your fingers.

Safety note: This rattle is intended as a decorative handmade toy. If making it for a baby, ensure all parts are sewn on very securely, use only baby-safe materials, and supervise play. Do not leave small parts unattended.

Pro Tips and Variations

  • Change the colors. Try a pale cream body with lavender ears, or a soft mint bunny for a different fairycore look. Change colors at the start of a round for a clean line.
  • Adjust the size. Use a thicker yarn and a larger hook (such as worsted weight with an F/5 or G/6 hook) to make a bigger bunny. Keep the same stitch counts and your bunny will simply grow.
  • Substitute the yarn. A smooth cotton yarn gives crisp, even stitches, while a soft acrylic blend feels extra squishy. Avoid fuzzy or textured yarns for a first project, as they hide your stitches.
  • Make the ears longer or shorter. Add or remove repeats of Rnds 4–12 on the ears to change their length. Each extra repeat adds about half an inch.

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