Emberwood Fingerless Gloves Free Pattern – Knit Cozy Autumn Arm Warmers

Emberwood Fingerless Gloves Free Pattern – Knit Cozy Autumn Arm Warmers

Wrap your hands in the warmth of falling leaves with these textured fingerless gloves, featuring a rich gradient of burnt orange, deep rust, and golden amber. The intricate cable-and-rib pattern creates a snug, elegant fit that transitions beautifully from crisp morning walks to cozy evening reads. This free knitting pattern is perfect for intermediate knitters looking to expand their cable skills while creating a stunning, functional accessory. The Emberwood gloves are not just practical—they're a statement piece that captures the essence of autumn in every stitch.

Whether you're a seasoned knitter or a confident beginner ready for a challenge, this pattern offers clear instructions, detailed explanations, and a gorgeous result that you'll be proud to wear or gift. The combination of cables, ribbing, and color transitions creates a dimensional, textured surface that catches light beautifully, making these arm warmers a true wardrobe staple for the cooler months.

Materials Needed

Before you begin your Emberwood Fingerless Gloves journey, gather the following materials. Having everything ready will make your knitting experience smooth and enjoyable.

Yarn

• Worsted weight yarn in three colors (approximately 200g total):
• Burnt Orange (MC) – Main Color, used for cuffs, thumb, and finishing
• Deep Rust (CC1) – Contrast Color 1, used for the first cable section
• Golden Amber (CC2) – Contrast Color 2, used for the second cable section

Pro tip: Choose yarns with good stitch definition, such as wool or wool-blends, to make the cable patterns pop. The sample uses approximately 200g total, so plan your yardage accordingly.

Needles and Notions

• US 7 (4.5mm) knitting needles – circular needles for working in the round, or double-pointed needles if preferred
• Cable needle – for creating the braided cable patterns
• Stitch markers – at least 4 markers for tracking rounds and the thumb gusset
• Stitch holder or waste yarn – for holding thumb stitches temporarily
• Tapestry needle – for weaving in ends and finishing

Gauge

20 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch using US 7 (4.5mm) needles. Always knit a gauge swatch before starting to ensure your gloves fit perfectly. Adjust needle size if necessary to achieve the correct gauge.

Step-by-Step Instructions

These instructions are written for two sizes: S/M (M/L) – the sample shown is in size M/L. Follow the numbers in parentheses for size M/L throughout the pattern. The gloves are worked in the round from the cuff up, with a thumb gusset integrated seamlessly into the design.

Abbreviations

• CO: cast on
• K: knit
• P: purl
• K2tog: knit two together (decrease)
• SSK: slip, slip, knit (decrease)
• C4F: slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in front, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
• C4B: slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in back, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
• PM: place marker
• RM: remove marker
• M1L: make one left (increase)
• M1R: make one right (increase)

Getting Started: The Cuff

Step 1: Cast On
With MC (Burnt Orange), CO 40 (44) stitches. Join in the round, being extremely careful not to twist your stitches. Place a stitch marker (PM) to mark the beginning of the round. The join is crucial—if your stitches are twisted, the entire glove will be twisted, so take a moment to ensure everything is straight before joining.

Step 2: Work the Ribbed Cuff
Rounds 1-12: Work K2, P2 ribbing for 12 rounds. This creates a snug, stretchy cuff that will keep your gloves in place. Keep your tension even and consistent throughout these rounds. The ribbing should measure approximately 2 inches when relaxed.

Creating the Cable Pattern Body

Step 3: Switch to CC1 (Deep Rust)
Cut MC, leaving a 6-inch tail for weaving in later. Join CC1 and begin the cable pattern. The color change will create a beautiful gradient effect as you work through the sections.

Round 13: K all stitches. This plain knit round establishes the base for the cable pattern and helps the color transition look clean.

Round 14: *C4F, K4, C4B, K4* – repeat from * to * around (5 (5.5) repeats). This round creates the braided cable effect. Remember: C4F means slip 2 stitches to your cable needle, hold it in FRONT of your work, knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. C4B is the same but hold the cable needle in BACK. This creates the crossing effect that forms the cable.

Round 15: K all stitches. The plain knit rounds between cable rounds allow the pattern to breathe and create the textured, dimensional look.

Round 16: *K4, C4B, K4, C4F* – repeat from * to * around. Notice how this round is offset from Round 14—this creates the braided, twisted effect that makes the cable pattern so striking.

Rounds 17-20: Repeat Rounds 13-16 once more. This completes the first cable section in CC1. You should have two full cable crosses in this color.

Step 4: Transition to CC2 (Golden Amber)
Cut CC1, leaving a tail. Join CC2.

Rounds 21-24: With CC2, repeat Rounds 13-16. This creates the golden amber section of your gradient, adding warmth and depth to the middle of the glove.

Step 5: Return to MC (Burnt Orange)
Cut CC2, leaving a tail. Join MC.

Rounds 25-28: With MC, repeat Rounds 13-16. This completes the body of the glove up to the thumb gusset. You now have three beautiful color sections with cable patterns throughout.

Shaping the Thumb Gusset

Step 6: Begin the Thumb Gusset
Continue with MC. The thumb gusset adds stitches gradually to create room for your thumb without breaking the pattern.

Round 29: K19 (21), PM, M1L, K1, M1R, PM, K20 (22) – 42 (46) stitches total. The markers you place here will frame your thumb gusset. M1L and M1R are increases that lean left and right respectively, creating a neat, symmetrical gusset.

Round 30: K all stitches. This plain round allows the increases to settle into the fabric.

Round 31: K to marker, slip marker, M1L, K to marker, M1R, slip marker, K to end – 44 (48) stitches. You're increasing one stitch on each side of the gusset, making it wider with each increase round.

Rounds 32-35: Repeat Rounds 30-31 twice more – 48 (52) stitches total. After these rounds, your gusset should have 9 (11) stitches between the markers. The gusset now has enough room for your thumb.

Step 7: Separate the Thumb
Round 36: K to first marker, RM, place next 9 (11) stitches on a stitch holder or waste yarn for thumb, RM, CO 1 stitch, K to end – 40 (42) stitches remain for hand. The cast-on stitch bridges the gap between the hand and thumb, keeping the hand portion continuous.

Working the Hand Section

Step 8: Continue the Pattern
Continue in pattern as established, alternating cable rounds with knit rounds. Work through the color sequence: CC1, CC2, and MC, working 4 rounds of each color. This continues the gradient effect up the hand.

Work until hand measures 4 (4.5) inches from thumb opening, ending with a knit round. The hand should feel comfortable and cover your palm while leaving your fingers free.

Finishing the Hand

Step 9: Work the Finishing Rib
Switch to MC. Work K2, P2 ribbing for 8 rounds. This creates a finished edge at the top of the glove that matches the cuff, providing a cohesive look.

Step 10: Bind Off
Bind off loosely in pattern. To bind off in pattern, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as you bind off. This maintains the ribbing pattern and ensures a stretchy edge that's easy to get your hand through. Bind off loosely to avoid a tight, uncomfortable edge.

Knitting the Thumb

Step 11: Work the Thumb
Transfer thumb stitches from holder to needles. With MC, pick up and knit 2 stitches from the CO edge of the hand – 11 (13) stitches. Picking up stitches from the cast-on edge closes the gap between the thumb and hand, creating a seamless look.

Work K2, P2 ribbing for 6 rounds. The ribbing gives the thumb a snug, comfortable fit.

Bind off loosely in pattern, just as you did for the hand.

Final Finishing Touches

Step 12: Weave in Ends
Weave in all ends using your tapestry needle. Take care to weave ends in securely, following the path of the yarn to hide them completely. Pay special attention to the color change points—weave those ends in on the wrong side of the work.

Step 13: Block Gently
Block gently to shape. Wet blocking is ideal for this pattern—soak the gloves in lukewarm water with a gentle wool wash, then press out excess water (don't wring!), and lay flat to dry, shaping them to the correct dimensions. Blocking will even out your stitches and make the cable pattern really shine.

Step 14: Repeat for Second Glove
Repeat the entire process for the second glove. To ensure your gloves match perfectly, keep notes on which round you ended with and any adjustments you made. Many knitters find it helpful to work both gloves simultaneously on two sets of needles to ensure they're identical.

Tips for Success

Master the Cables: If you're new to cabling, practice the C4F and C4B stitches on a small swatch first. The key is to keep your tension even and not to pull too tightly when working the cable needle stitches.

Track Your Rounds: Use a row counter or a piece of paper to track your rounds, especially during the cable sections. It's easy to lose your place when the pattern repeats.

Check Your Fit: Try on your glove as you go, especially when working the hand section. Everyone's hands are different, so adjust the length if needed.

Color Transitions: When changing colors, knit the first stitch of the new color loosely to avoid a tight, puckered transition. Weave in ends as you go to save time at the end.

Your Emberwood Fingerless Gloves are now complete! These cozy arm warmers are perfect for autumn walks, chilly office days, or as a thoughtful handmade gift. The rich gradient of burnt orange, deep rust, and golden amber captures the essence of fall, while the intricate cable pattern adds a touch of rustic elegance to any outfit. Enjoy your beautiful, handcrafted creation!