Aurora Drift Striped Pullover Free Pattern – Cozy Knit with Gradient Stripes

Wrap yourself in the soft embrace of the Aurora Drift Pullover, a modern knit featuring dreamy gradient stripes that mimic the northern lights. This cozy, oversized sweater is perfect for chilly evenings and adds a touch of artistic flair to any wardrobe. The smooth stockinette stitch and chunky worsted weight yarn create a plush, warm fabric with a beautiful drape, while the ribbed crew neck, cuffs, and hem provide a polished finish. Whether you're a seasoned knitter or looking for your next rewarding project, this free pattern will guide you through creating a stunning, wearable piece of art.

Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather the following materials to ensure a smooth knitting experience. This pattern is designed for worsted weight yarn and requires specific needle sizes to achieve the correct gauge.

• Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in 5 colors:
  • A (cream) – approximately 240 (270, 300, 330) yards
  • B (soft pink) – approximately 240 (270, 300, 330) yards
  • C (lavender) – approximately 240 (270, 300, 330) yards
  • D (dusty blue) – approximately 240 (270, 300, 330) yards
  • E (deep teal) – approximately 240 (270, 300, 330) yards
  Total yarn needed: Approximately 1200 (1350, 1500, 1650) yards.
• Needles:
  • US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles, 24-32 inches long (for body and yoke)
  • US 7 (4.5 mm) double-pointed needles (for sleeves)
• Notions: Stitch markers, stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle for weaving in ends, measuring tape.

Gauge

20 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Always knit a gauge swatch before starting to ensure your finished sweater matches the intended measurements. Adjust needle size if necessary to achieve the correct gauge.

Step-by-Step Instructions

This pattern is worked top-down in the round, which means you'll start at the neck and work your way down to the hem. The stripes are created by alternating colors in a specific sequence. Follow the instructions carefully, and you'll have a beautiful, custom-fit sweater in no time.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

This pattern is written for sizes XS (S, M, L). The finished chest measurements are:

• XS: 36 inches
• S: 40 inches
• M: 44 inches
• L: 48 inches

Instructions are written for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses. For example: "cast on 80 (88, 96, 104) stitches" means cast on 80 stitches for XS, 88 for S, 96 for M, and 104 for L.

Pattern Notes

• Construction: Worked top-down in the round. The yoke is shaped with increases, then the body and sleeves are worked separately.
• Stripe Sequence: A, B, A, C, A, D, A, E, repeat. This creates the gradient effect. Continue this sequence throughout the entire sweater, including the body and sleeves.
• Stitch Marker: Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round. Move it up as you work.
• M1 (Make 1): Increase one stitch by picking up the horizontal bar between the stitch just worked and the next stitch, and knitting it through the back loop. This creates an invisible increase.

Yoke

Step 1: Cast On and Ribbing
With color A, cast on 80 (88, 96, 104) stitches. Place a stitch marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Work in 2x2 ribbing (k2, p2) for 2 inches. This will form the crew neck.

Step 2: First Increase Round
After the ribbing, work the first increase round: *K4, M1* repeat around. You will now have 100 (110, 120, 130) stitches on your needles.

Step 3: Begin Stripe Pattern
Begin the stripe sequence (A, B, A, C, A, D, A, E, repeat). Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) for 2 rounds.

Step 4: Second Increase Round
Next round: *K10, M1* repeat around. You will now have 110 (121, 132, 143) stitches. Work 3 rounds even (knit all stitches).

Step 5: Third Increase Round
Next round: *K11, M1* repeat around. You will now have 120 (132, 144, 156) stitches. Work 3 rounds even.

Step 6: Continue Increasing
Continue increasing in this manner every 4th round, adding 10 (11, 12, 13) stitches each time. To do this, the number of knit stitches between M1 increases will grow. For example, the next increase round would be *K12, M1*, then *K13, M1*, and so on. Work even (no increases) for 3 rounds between each increase round. Continue until you have 200 (220, 240, 260) stitches on your needles.

Step 7: Yoke Length
Work even (without increases) until the yoke measures 8 (9, 10, 11) inches from the cast-on edge. This measurement is taken from the top of the shoulder, down the yoke.

Divide for Body and Sleeves

Step 8: Separate Sleeves
Now you will divide the work for the body and sleeves. Knit across 60 (66, 72, 78) stitches for the front. Place the next 40 (44, 48, 52) stitches on a stitch holder or waste yarn for the first sleeve. Cast on 6 (8, 10, 12) stitches for the underarm. Knit across the next 60 (66, 72, 78) stitches for the back. Place the next 40 (44, 48, 52) stitches on a holder for the second sleeve. Cast on 6 (8, 10, 12) stitches for the second underarm.

Step 9: Body Stitch Count
You should now have a total of 132 (148, 164, 180) stitches on your circular needle for the body. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round, which is now at the center of the underarm.

Body

Step 10: Knit the Body
Continue working in the round in stockinette stitch, maintaining the stripe sequence (A, B, A, C, A, D, A, E, repeat). Work until the body measures 12 (13, 14, 15) inches from the underarm, or your desired length. Try it on to check the length if possible.

Step 11: Body Ribbing
Work 2x2 ribbing (k2, p2) for 2 inches. Bind off loosely in pattern. This creates the ribbed hem.

Sleeves

Step 12: Set Up Sleeves
Place the sleeve stitches from the holder onto double-pointed needles. Starting at the center of the underarm, pick up and knit 6 (8, 10, 12) stitches from the cast-on underarm stitches. You will now have a total of 46 (52, 58, 64) stitches for the sleeve. Place a marker at the center of the underarm to mark the beginning of the round.

Step 13: Knit the Sleeve
Work in stockinette stitch in the round, continuing the stripe sequence. Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker every 6th round. To do this, knit to 2 stitches before the marker, k2tog (knit two together), slip marker, ssk (slip, slip, knit – a left-leaning decrease). Continue decreasing until you have 40 (44, 48, 52) stitches remaining on the needles.

Step 14: Sleeve Length
Work even (without decreases) until the sleeve measures 16 (17, 18, 19) inches from the underarm, or your desired length.

Step 15: Sleeve Ribbing
Work 2x2 ribbing (k2, p2) for 1 inch. Bind off loosely in pattern. Repeat steps 12-15 for the second sleeve.

Finishing

Step 16: Weave in Ends
Using a tapestry needle, weave in all loose ends on the wrong side of the fabric. Be sure to secure them well so they don't come undone with wear.

Step 17: Blocking
Block the sweater to the finished measurements. To do this, soak the sweater in lukewarm water with a gentle wool wash for 15-20 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay the sweater flat on a clean towel, roll it up to remove more water, then shape it to the correct measurements on a dry towel or blocking mat. Allow it to dry completely. Blocking will even out the stitches and give your sweater a professional, polished look.

Congratulations! You've completed your Aurora Drift Striped Pullover. The gradient stripes and cozy fit make it a stunning addition to any wardrobe. Enjoy wearing your handmade creation, and don't forget to share your finished project with the knitting community!